Women at Mountjoy Prison modelled their own designs this week, writes Deirdre McQuillan, Fashion Editor
Fashion editors get invited to strange and often way-out locations to view catwalk shows, particularly in London and Paris, but this week in Dublin two such events took place in strikingly different surroundings and circumstances. On Wednesday, in the Round Room of the Mansion House, which was decked out to look like Radio City, young Limerick society designer Synan O'Mahony staged his first solo show. It was a champagne affair, in front of a glitzy charity audience (See On The Town: W8).
The other show took place the following day in Dóchas, the women's prison in Mountjoy Prison, modelled by 14 residents and 14 NCAD diploma students, with supervised entry to the recreation hall by invitation only. Spectators included families and friends of the models, other prisoners, prison staff and NCAD guests.
At the Mansion House, models, styled like 1940s movie stars, all cascading tresses and high heels, paraded some 50 evening dresses in fabrics sourced from all over Europe; lace from Paris, silks from Barcelona and embroidered ribbons from London. It was one long procession of low cuts, high slits and fishtails with rather a lot of flesh, and rather a lot of taffeta bustiers for which the designer is noted. Hand beading and sparkling crystal jewellery added to the glamour.
In the prison, inexpensive fabrics were bought in Dublin, and the nine-week project involved each woman designing and making her own outfit from start to finish and then modelling it.
At the Mansion House, impressive amounts of money changed hands at the interval auction. Former minister Jim McDaid bid €1,600 for a child's Raleigh Chopper, someone else €2,000 for a private dining experience and a third bid €2,800 for one of the designer's dresses. O'Mahony has been responsible for a number of high-profile wedding dresses including those of Mary Harney, Georgina Ahern and her five bridesmaids. His mission statement is to make a red carpet dress for the Oscars.
Up at the women's prison, where there are 85 prisoners serving sentences up to life imprisonment, the "vision" statement is about including the community, about "bringing the outside in", and the energetic whoops and cheers in the audience for the models and their designs demonstrated great enjoyment and approval.
The clothes from the 14 NCAD diploma students were very impressive and accomplished, one a stylish variation of a straitjacket in white shantung, another a layered black organza dress with ribboned midriff.
Up against such talent, the prisoners showed their own mettle and courageous modelling skills, offering a mixture of practical everyday dress and more creative, fanciful affairs. Some displayed exceptional competence and creativity; one woman made not only her own long ballgown, embroidered with fabric leaves, but six flamboyant hats in tumbles of coloured tulle.
Pink satin camisoles were popular items and smart jackets and black trousers perfect attire for court appearances. "Some wouldn't think about making something extravagant they could never wear again. They are not going to dinner parties, cocktail parties and balls. But we say it's OK to dream, to draw that out," says Marcie Barron, head of the Dóchas education department.
Ever since she encouraged some of the prisoners to design and model garments from recycled materials six years ago, Barron touched a responsive chord in her charges and "they never left us alone after that", she smiles.
"Fashion brings out their creativity just like art, jewellery-making or cookery. The magnitude and achievement of this effort cannot be underestimated." The event on Thursday was their fourth and biggest fashion show, involving a community effort of some 50 to 60 people and the help of NCAD tutors for the first time.
Many of the women had to learn how to sew and make patterns, while others such as the stylish and colourful African compère even printed and painted their own fabrics or made jewellery.
"The women have many untapped talents," says Kathleen McMahon, governor of Dóchas. "This is all about building up confidence and self esteem and it gives their families an opportunity to see them in a different light."
According to John Lonergan, governor of Mountjoy Prison, who attended the show: "Fashion has fantastic potential - anything to do with creativity is brilliant. The single best thing we did was to allow them wear make-up in the mid-l980s. All this has a real educational value. A huge amount of work went into this; these are not soft options, this was hard work.
"I am certain, after today, that some people will never look back. The buzz around the place has been fantastic and they will feed off it for weeks."
Whatever about the hidden power of fashion, in an unusual week that saw a young Limerick designer make a flamboyant début one day and female prisoners staging their own show the next, there was no doubting the greater excitement and emotion on the other, less well-heeled side of town.
Made in Mountjoy could be a label to watch.