FRANCE: Before the show yesterday, Dries Van Noten gave viewers a rare glimpse of the elaborate backstage activity that precedes a big Paris catwalk presentation. By erecting a transparent screen between the spectators and the production area, the Belgian designer made the private public and in so doing seemed to highlight the workmanship that goes into his clothes.
Known for his bohemian love of ethnic dress, his collection yesterday was more sombre and industrial in spirit than usual, with tracksuit bottom trousers, billowing nylon coats and quilted bomber jackets taking their cue from the street rather than the steppes. Even the models' hair was slicked back into a hard glitter, reflecting the shine of their patent wedges. Quilting was a strong motif throughout, used discreetly on the bodice of a high-waisted dress or exaggerated in an oversize scarf and jacket. The colour palette of mustard, cinnamon, orange and grey was subtle and sophisticated and the designer's signature love of embroidery on the hem of a mohair dress or the creamy beading on Chinese yellow silk lifted an otherwise muted collection.
Akris may not be a familiar name in Ireland, but this Swiss company based in St Gallen is becoming an increasingly successful brand in the US, where Condoleeza Rice is a fan.
Associated more with fabric innovation than design, that perception is beginning to change, as this collection so amply demonstrated. Sleek and modern, it offered convincing day and evening wear for an international power dresser whose fancy might be taken by a shrug made of aluminium encased in silk georgette, just one of the company's many extraordinary new fabrics. A precisely cut grey cashmere suit and a slashed leather jacket over stretch trousers meant business, particularly equipped with hardware like hand-crafted steel belts in chrome or black lacquer.
The Singapore designer Andrew Gn (rhymes with pen), a mainstay of Harvey Nichols, showed some very beautiful coats and very sexy evening wear in a high-polished collection that made the most of opulent fabrics and Art Deco decor. Salt and pepper tweeds were threaded with ribbon, bronze brocade coats featured graphic rose motifs and a black coat had jewel sleeves and black velvet appliqué. "Hey, big spender", the soundtrack at Akris, could well have set the mood here too.