Indonesia's reformist President Abdurrahman Wahid apologised yesterday for Jakarta's often harsh 24-year occupation of East Timor, but his landmark visit was marred by gunshots and angry protests.
UN peacekeepers from Portugal fired two warning shots to calm a waiting crowd as he drove into Dili after arriving at the city's Komoro airport.
Before flying back to Jakarta, Mr Wahid laid wreaths at Dili's Santa Cruz cemetery, site of an infamous 1991 massacre by Indonesian troops, and at a neighbouring cemetery where Indonesian soldiers who died in the long guerrilla war are buried.
"I would like to apologise for the things that have happened in the past, to the victims or the families of Santa Cruz and those friends who are buried in the military cemetery," Mr Wahid said.
Independence supporters say up to 250 people died when troops opened fire on a funeral procession at Santa Cruz on November 11th, 1991. Indonesian authorities put the number at more than 50.
It was the first official visit by an Indonesian leader since Jakarta gave up its claim to the territory after East Timorese voted for independence last year. That vote unleashed a rampage by pro-Indonesian militia in which hundreds were killed.
Just after declaring he felt "at home" in Dili soon after his arrival, Mr Wahid was forced to shelter in the governor's palace, which now serves as offices for the interim UN administration.
About 300 protesters noisily demanded that Indonesia reveal the truth about the deaths or disappearance of resistance fighters during its 24-year occupation.
Two Timorese leaders, Mr Xanana Gusmao and Mr Jose Ramos-Hort, tried to calm the crowd. A small delegation from the protesters, including the widow of a murdered guerrilla leader, David Alex, was allowed inside.
Mr Ramos-Horta said he regretted the protest. "But this is a democratic country and people have the right to express their feelings," he said.