Ease the pressures of another new year with a stroll away from it all in the mountains, writes John G O'Dwyer, who offers five of his own favourite hillside walks
Winter has magical appeal. There are few of us who do not experience some quickening of the pulse, as the first winter crystals mantle the high peaks. Indeed many are immediately energised to rush for the hills, snowboard or ice-axe in hand. Others can be seen, en famille, in brightly coloured hats and jackets, busily building ephemeral Irish snowmen. In Ireland we are certainly right to make the most of any short-lived winter wonderland. Indeed, I have been in thrall to the white stuff myself, travelling to foreign peaks to puff, pant and hack my way to an icy summit.
Yet, despite these unforgettable glacial highs, the muddy mountains of Ireland have maintained their special appeal. There is nothing like the earthy tang of a winter day and it doesn't have to be snowy or sunny, or frosty, or indeed anything special.
Winter is a time when the natural world relaxes to draw breath. Nature having laboured hard in spring, summer and autumn is now, in a quieter, less active phase. While we humans race around madly on a treadmill of our own creation, nature shows us a valuable lesson and takes time out. Now, the days are short, the haze-filtered sunlight is weak and the shadows are long. Yet in spite - or perhaps because of this - winter brings its special atmosphere.
The ideal is a mild winter day, but with a hint of ice on the breeze to sharpen the senses. Of course the views won't be cut-glass clear, but are markedly more subtle. In bright sunlight, the mountains are gloriously disrobed - revealing all. Part clothed in mist, they tease us with tantalizing and seductive revelations. Then the darkened peaks seem higher, more mysterious and introspective. Familiar rocks appear suddenly as eerie shapes. As twilight approaches, a fleeting vision of twinkling lowland lights, presents an illusion of peace and timelessness .
Of course it rains sometimes, although not as often as stay-home-birds imagine. Then we have a choice. We can pull on wet gear and curse the Irish climate or we can accept that it is the rain-bearing westerly winds that breathe life to our mountains. I have shared the experience of hiking a few days under a glaring sun, across the dried brown earth of the Spanish mountains, never once seeing a lake, a stream or as much as a drop of water. What would I not have given then, for a soft Irish shower? In reality, there is no such thing as bad weather on a mountain - just changing weather. Ireland's ample rainfall is no more a cause for downheartedness than is the Spanish sun. We should actually be celebrating our abundant rainfall, as the water that trickles sensually over our skin on a soft mountain day, ultimately creates the heart-lifting colours and profusion of life, which are the unforgettable features of our upland areas.
At day's end, the ideal descent comes amid winter's dusk with the sunlight drowning in the west, when we feel assured that we have taken the last that daylight can offer. And how to finish? An unpretentious country hostelry, a roaring fire, toddies on tap, and hot brew and toasties for the truly famished.
Five fine family walks this year and where to chill-out afterwards:
Gleninagh Mountain, The Burren, Co Clare
From the R477, Doolin to Ballyvaughan road, go inland from Fanore past St Patrick's Church and up the Caher River Valley, colloquially known as the Kyber Pass. After three-and-a-half kilometres, a road to the right offers some parking opportunities. The walking route goes left, however, following the Burren Way uphill. Stay with this track to the brow of the hill beside the fort of Cathair on Ard Rios. Head towards Gleninagh Mountain, which is obvious to the north. Gleninagh has excellent views and is marked by a trig point. Dobhach Brainin is your next high point and is clearly visible to the northwest. Continue over this summit to the rounded fort of Cathair Dhuin Irghuis. Beyond this fort you will soon encounter an ancient green road. Go left following this road all the way back to Fanore. Then follow the Caher Valley back to your car after an energetic four-and-a-half hours of walking.
Afterwards you are spoiled for choice of fireside. Two of Ireland's most renowned pubs are nearby. The Monks in Ballyvaughan is 11 kilometres north from Fanore, with O'Connor's of Doolin 16 kilometres to the south.
Lake Muskry, Glen of Aherlow, Co Tipperary
Head up the Glen of Aherlow from the main Tipperary/Cahir Road to Rossadrehid. Follow the signs left for Lake Muskry. Park at the forest gate and keep to the track following the helpful arrows, first through cleared forest and then across open mountain all the way to the lakeshore. Return by the same route allowing about three hours. Your reward is the largest lake in the Galtee Mountains, set in a glaciated amphitheatre amid towering cliffs.
The fireside is in a small room off the bar in the sylvan surroundings of the nearby Glen Hotel
Killary Harbour, Connemara, Co Galway
The start is at the end of a minor road which is to the right, approximately eight kilometres from Leenaun village (Letterfrack road) just after crossing the Bunowen River. Walk towards the shore and the awe-inspiring vista of Killary Fiord opens out, gouged and widened by glaciers. Continue, keeping the shoreline on your right. Across Killary stands the huge bulk of Mweelrea, the highest mountain in Connacht. Pass Foher, a village deserted from earlier this century and eventually reach the still surviving village of Rosroe, turning right for the pier. Retrace the same route back to your car, but with stunningly different vista. Your reward is beguiling scenery and a social comment on the depopulation of the west. Allow three hours for the return trip.
Later sit by the fireside on a genuine movie set. The pub scenes for The Field were made in Gaynors of Leenane.
Mullacor, Glendalough, Co Wicklow
From the upper car-park at Glendalough, follow the walker signs south along the Laragh/Glenmalure section of the Wicklow Way, ascending steeply by the small waterfall of Poulanass. The route actually swings north/east for a time but then returns to a southerly direction. Continue upwards along zig-zag forest tracks, until a saddle is reached. This is where the Wicklow Way descends into Glemmalure. At this point follow a track steeply left and the summit of Mullacor is reached after 500 metres. Return by retracing your steps having spent about three-and-a-half hours on the mountain.
Chill out later in the Roundwood Inn, Roundwood, for good atmosphere and hearty helpings of Irish/Germanic food.
Powerscourt Waterfall and Djouce Mountain, Co Wicklow
Just three kilometres south of Enniskerry, turn right for Glencree and after about four kilometres, park (left) in Crone car-park. Follow the Wicklow Way through dense forest generally south-east for about two kilometres. Then climb steeply with the Dargle river valley on the left.
Suddenly, the forest clears and you are above Powerscourt Waterfall - the highest in Ireland - with the Sylvan serenity of Powerscourt deerpark laid out below. Families may wish to return at this point, arriving back to Crone in a total time of about two hours. Others may wish to continue along the Wicklow Way, crossing the Dargle and skirting a forest. Eventually, the Way rises across open mountain and when it levels out a path to the right leads to Djouce summit, one of the finest viewing points in Wicklow. Retrace your steps to the car having spent a little more than four hours among the hills.
Now that the tourists are gone, it is the ideal time to tarry by one of the firesides in the surprisingly rustic surroundings of Johnny Fox's Pub, Glencullen, which enjoys a justifiable reputation for the quality of it's food and music.
- John G O'Dwyer is a Tipperary-based mountain leader