To many, the stereotypical image of Devon and Cornwall is built on a foundation of cream teas and Arthurian legend. Oft overlooked as a UK holiday destination, the twin - but by no means inseparable - locations are steeped in history, culture, architecture, nature, and the arts.
Cornwall has a history that dates back to the Bronze Age. It also has a separate language and culture still celebrated in Druidic meetings at ancient holy places such as St Michael's Chapel, Roche Rock, near St Austell. Cornwall has always been removed from the rest of Britain, yet strategically placed for commerce. With trade came new philosophies and new religions - early saints passed through it en route between Europe and Ireland, and you can see the last remaining vestiges of their passage dotted throughout the countryside, in the weather-beaten High crosses, holy wells, and in the names of the churches.
Devon may have been settled even earlier, as the reconstructed Stone Age settlement at Capton, near Dartmouth, suggests. But the glory years followed 1588 when famous seafarers like Frobisher, Drake, and Raleigh sailed from the ports of Appledore, Bideford, Falmouth, Fowey, and Plymouth, to defeat the Spanish Armada. Another halcyon period began from the discovery of china clay in 1748, and the Industrial Revolution that followed the invention of the first practical steam engine by Thomas Newcomen in Dartmouth.
Arriving in Exeter, following a bump-free flight from Dublin on the minuscule but oddly comforting Jersey European Airways Short 360, our initial plan was to steer clear of its reputation as Britain's most haunted city. If you're of a mind, you can partake of a redcoat tour of Exeter's darkest secrets, visiting its ancient underground passages, catacombs, and priory - the latter being a tiny church surrounded by a modern (but not very pretty) shopping centre. Instead, we visited the structurally wonderful Exeter Cathedral. Dating from the 14th century, this is one of England's most beautiful buildings, maintained not by central government funds but by a steady flow of cash donations from appreciative visitors. A fascinating point of interest are the newly-completed Exeter Rondels - the story of the Cathedral from a national and local aspect displayed in poetic form on intricately embroidered cushions.
The cathedral was so appealing it was all the more regretful to come across an historic building that promised much prior to arrival, but delivered little except moans of disappointment when viewed up close. Castle Drogo, in Drewsteignton (at the northern tip of Dartmoor National Park), is Devon's youngest castle. Designed by Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens, a famous English architect who dominated design in the early 1900s - his output includes the British embassy in Washington, and many works in New Delhi - Castle Drogo is devoid of structural warmth. It stands in grounds of natural beauty that were heavily rained upon at our time of visiting, and viewing Drogo on our departure it seemed fitting that such a characterless building should look so much at home in miserable weather.
Thankfully, the sun shone for the rest of the weekend, making our visit to Mevagissey, the largest working fishing port in St Austell Bay, a real pleasure. We had come here specifically to see Cornwall's most prized natural tourist attraction - the Lost Gardens of Heligan, the largest horticultural restoration project in Europe. Most of Cornwall's south coast is subtropical, creating horticultural wonders like the Abbey Gardens on the Scilly Island of Tresco, and the Amazonian ravine garden of Trebah on the Helford River. The gardens of Heligan (the Cornish word for "The Willows") was one of Cornwall's oldest and greatest, but which, up until five years ago, had not been heard of for over 70 years.
Heligan remains a highly individualistic time capsule. Gardens that were allowed to go to sleep from the first World War - when it was loaned to the War Department for use as a convalescence home for officers - are now restored to their rightful splendour. Brambles 10 feet high and over 700 storm-damaged trees were removed, the restoration team clearing the site of more than 1,500 tons of timber. The results are spectacular, a very personal and natural garden on a human scale with no landscape pretensions.
From Heligan, we journeyed to Falmouth, a drab south coast resort which boasts the third largest natural harbour in the world, but little else. An overnight stay did little to change our opinion. We quickly moved on to St Ives, a magnificently situated town that overlooks an imposing crescent of beaches. Its fishing quarter houses a warren of stone cottages, cobbled lanes and alleys, while its reputation as an artists' colony for almost 100 years lives on in the St. Ives Tate Gallery, built in 1993 on the derelict gasworks site. The gallery is a striking building, full of light and curious perspectives, which provides a becalming but crucial setting for showing the painting, sculpture, and ceramics associated with the area.
We could have spent more time there - as indeed in the entire locality - but the siren call of Devon Cream teas and the harsh crowing of personal deadlines was too strong to withstand. We returned to Exeter, topped ourselves up, and tottered onto the aeroplane. We will, we promised ourselves, be back. Soon.
Getting There
Jersey European Airways fly daily to Exeter from £85. Air South West fly daily (except Saturdays) to Plymouth from £248. Devon and Cornwall can also be accessed from Bristol airport, to which Aer Lingus and Ryanair operate daily flights. Aer Lingus flights start from £69. Ryanair from £59. Ryanair also operate flights to Bournemouth from £69.
Fact File
Best Places To Stay
For that extra special luxury break, try St Mellion's International Hotel Golf & Country Club. Situated on a 450 acre estate 10 miles outside Plymouth, the Club consists of two golf courses (one of which was designed by Jack Nicklaus), a 24-bedroom hotel, and 32 Gold Award lodges and cottages with built-in saunas and spa baths. Contact (01579) 351351.
Best Restaurants
You cannot visit Devon/Cornwall without a trip to Padstow, home of Rick Stein's famed Seafood Restaurant and St Petroc's Hotel & Bistro. Padstow's working fishing boats are one of the town's greatest attractions, and Stein's eateries specialise in freshly-caught seafood. The Seafood Restaurant itself is airy and spacious, and has justifiably earned itself a reputation for imaginative cooking of the very freshest of fish and shellfish. Advance booking is recommended. Contact (01841) 532485.
Best Devon Cream Teas
Inevitably, there are many establishments that serve the famed Devon Cream teas. The best we tasted was in the Hotel Riviera, Sidmouth (01395) 515201. Clotted cream, sugar, strawberries, fresh hot scones. Too good to be true!
Forthcoming Events
From July 5th-10th, Newquay 1900 is a week of Victorian flavoured events that celebrates the birth of the resort. From July 10th-14th,the West Cornwall Maritime Festival is a celebration of maritime heritage and classic sailing. Contact the British Tourist Authority, College Green, Dublin 2, or telephone (01) 670 8111 for further details.