Ireland's supermarkets have been steadily improving their selection of specialist foods over the past few years, determined to chase down every sector of the food market. But throughout the country there are still specialist shops whose range is more choice and better considered, and who often sell items which cannot be found anywhere else.
Dublin
Roy Fox, Main Street, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, phone 012692892: Everything your shelves could possibly need. Des Donnelly's shop is - literally - jam-packed with comestibles from all over the globe. If you can't find it anywhere else, you'll find it here.
Terroirs, Morehampton Road, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, phone 016671311: This is where you get the great Champs mustard and vinegars, as well as terrific single-estate olive oils.
Asia Market, Drury Street, Dublin 2, phone 01-6779764: For everything from the east, from soy sauce to pickled ginger to miso.
Sheridan's Cheesemongers, South Anne Street, Dublin 2 : For splendid parmesan, and good olive oil at good prices. Also at Kirwan's Lane, Galway.
Universal Foods, Upper Camden Street, Dublin 2, phone 014784617: A great source for exotica when the recipe calls for it.
The Dublin Food Co-Op, St Andrew's Centre, Pearse Street, Dublin 2, phone 01-8721191: A splendid spot to source pulses and grains at good prices, as well as many other wholefoods.
The Big Cheese Co, Trinity Street, Dublin 2, phone 01-6711399: Not just cheeses, but a whole plethora of hand-picked labels from all over the world.
Cooke's Food Hall, Upper Market Street, Dublin 2, phone 016799923: John Cooke's choice shop has a lot of fine foods which cannot be found elsewhere. He also sells the brilliant Illy Coffee.
Magills, Clarendon Street, Dublin 2, phone 01-6713830: The quintessential delicatessen, packed from floor to ceiling with all the things you need.
Ow Valley Farm Shop, Powerscourt Centre, Dublin 2, phone 01-6794079: Where Nigel Slater gets his special Turkish Delight, one imagines.
Caviston's Delicatessen, Glasthule Road, Dun Laoghaire, phone 01-2809120: A treasure-trove, in every sense. Don't think about heading out here without having lunch at their brilliant fish restaurant.
Morton and Son, Garville Avenue, Rathmines, Dublin 6, phone 01-4971254: An architectural jewel and a smashing little independent supermarket as well.
Naturally Nice, Dunville Avenue, Rathmines, Dublin 6, phone 01-4973411: For Italian specialities.
Kim Condon, 99B Rathgar Road, Dublin 6, phone 01-4929148: An excellent spot for sourcing Irish speciality foods.
Little Italy, North King Street, Dublin 7, phone 01-6770656: Tinned tomatoes, arborio rice and dried mushrooms, plus Lavazza coffee.
Kilkenny
Shortis Wong, 74 John Street, phone 056-61305: A great source for Oriental foods and good comestibles.
Laois
Jim's Country Kitchen, Church Street, Portlaoise, phone 050262061: A great restaurant which boasts a brand new food-hall packed with good things.
Offaly
Country Cookin', William Street, Tullamore, phone 0506-51833: Andrea Lynch's little shop is packed pell-mell with superb Irish foods.
Cork
Iago, Covered Market, Cork, phone 021-277047: Sean CalderPotts's stall has brilliant cheeses and lots of good Italian specialities.
Mr Bell's, Covered Market, Cork, phone 021-885333: The Oriental food specialist of the south coast: you will find every imported exotica here.
Natural Foods, Paul Street, Cork, phone 021-277244: A tiny shop, but full of good local and imported foods.
Field's Supermarket, Main Street, Skibbereen, Co Cork, phone 028-21400 Perhaps the best small supermarket in the entire country.
Manning's Emporium, Ballylickey, Co Cork, phone 027-50456: A great cheese counter, of course, but also lots of the best Irish food.
The Courtyard, Main Street, Schull, Co Cork, phone 028-28390: A great shop, and great coffee and pints while you browse.
Kerry
Treats, Main Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry : A beautiful shop, with irresistible speciality foods.
Continental Sausages, Fossa, Co Kerry, phone 064-33069: Armin Weise is one of the great charcutiers, but his shop also sells many interesting imported foods.
Limerick Fine Wines Food Hall, Roches Street, Limerick, phone 061-417784: an offshoot of the dynamic wine shops, this is a choice delicatessen, with great oils, cheeses and dried foods.
Tipperary Country Choice, Kenyon Street, Nenagh, phone 06732596: Peter Ward is the country's finest grocer, simple as that. Don't miss the marmalade.
Donegal Simple Simon, The Diamond, Donegal, phone 07322687: Andrew Cape's wholefood shop is a vital address in the county.
Belfast
Cargoes, 613 Lisburn Road, Belfast BT9, phone Belfast 66451: Mary, Radha and Daphne are renowned as cooks, but their discrimination is shown also in every item stocked on their shelves.
The Asia Supermarket, 189 Ormeau Road, Belfast BT1, phone Belfast 326396: The finest Chinese shop on the island, with everything including the chicken-feet.
Sawer's, Fountain Centre, Belfast BT1, phone Belfast 322021: Long-established Belfast institution, with great staff.
Galway
McCambridge's, Shop Street, Galway, phone 091-62259: A great cheese counter is only one of the attractions here, in a legendary Galway store.
Sligo
Cosgrove's, Market Street, phone 071-42809: An utterly charming, ageless shop, where everything is well chosen.
Kate's Kitchen, Market Street, phone 071-43022: One of the best delicatessens on the west coast, Kate and Frank's shop is invaluable.
Tir na nOg, Grattan Street, phone 071-62752: Mary McDonnell's shop has the choicest of wholefoods.