Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore, 1996 (Superquinn, £9.39; half bottle £5.99). Who says Soave is wishywashy? Try this lovely lemon-fresh but smooth rendering from top maker Pieropan and be converted.
I Frati Lugana, Ca' dei Frati, 1998
(Terroirs Donnybrook, Mortons Ranelagh, Redmonds Ranelagh, selected Superquinns, Findlaters Hatch Street, On The Grapevine Dalkey, Gibneys-Cheers Take Home Malahide, Raheny Wine Vault, usually about £9.50). From the Dal Cero family in Lombardy (son Marco typifies the young winemaker trend), a stylish wine - fresh and creamy at the same time.
Kettmeir Pinot Grigio Rulander, Maso Reiner, Alto Adige, 1997 (Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Carvills Camden Street, Martha's Vineyard Rathfarnham, about £11.95). This singlevineyard Pinot Grigio, fermented in oak barriques, is intriguing - with subtle power and a long, sustaining finish. Team it with fish or poultry: it's not a wine to sip alone or with light nibbles.