Domaine de Borie de Maurel Esprit d'Automne. Minervois 1999. 7.49 (Oddbins): From the ever-more-rewarding Languedoc area of southern France comes this chewy, intense bunch of syrah with a little mourvdre and perhaps carignan mixed in to add spice. Certainly it is a full mouthful, with a sharp, peppery kick on the palate and a relatively long, muscular finish that leaves a delightful taste of burnt ripe fruit. A lesser-known wine of an acclaimed domaine, the Esprit d'Automne is a winner and offers great value.
Domaine Begude - Limoux Chardonnay Comte Cathare. 1998. 11.29 (Oddbins): For the white we moved but a few miles in Languedoc, actually a few steps in the shop, for this newly-arrived, rich but restrained example of fine, oakey chardonnay. Having gone through the indiscrimate ABC (anything but) phase, it is time we championed this wonderful grape again, especially when it comes in such elegant, well-structured packages. Perhaps Robert Parker went characteristically over the top when he said of a earlier vintage: "Wow! What a flavourful, intense wine . . .".