An Irishwoman's Diary

Absolutes are always very risky in newspapers - and that's an absolute! Still, there's something irresistible about the assertion…

Absolutes are always very risky in newspapers - and that's an absolute! Still, there's something irresistible about the assertion that Galway is the "only city in the world" where the ocean "comes straight into its heart". Lorna Siggins writes.

And it does, "literally and metaphorically", Marta Gargelyova notes in Galway's Heritage, a magazine published recently by Galway City Council. One low-lying obstacle to this liquid embrace is Mutton island, marking the port's mouth just off Salthill.

The island is one of the west coast's best-known lighthouses - for all the worst reasons - and was once an embarrassing place for ship's captains. As the writer Bill Long, an authority on lighthouses, has pointed out, the first light tower dates back to 1817, but the island's proximity to sea level renders it almost invisible at high tide. That, and a strong south-westerly, has driven many a vessel onto the rocks.

Nowadays, of course, Mutton is no longer an island. Its sacrifice to the controversial sewage treatment plant has improved the bay's bathing water, as confirmed in the recent Environmental Protection Agency results for last year; and the new link causeway is frequented by binocular-bearing bird-watchers, telescope-toting astronomers and slightly frustrated walkers.

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Their frustration is caused by over-zealous security arrangements which cut the route far short of target. Still, in the company of city heritage officer Jim Higgins, one has a passport to almost everywhere. Higgins has one of the loneliest, toughest jobs in the State's fastest growing city of its size, but Mutton island can still bring a smile to his face - even on a bracing Saturday morning when he should be still in bed.

His smile of satisfaction is due to the work in progress on restoring the lighthouse and environs, funded by the Department of the Environment, the Heritage Council and Fás. Partners in the conservation project are members of Galway Civic Trust's community employment scheme. Over two winters, participants under the supervision of Michael Davis have carried out extensive repairs to the lightkeeper's cottage roof, the perimeter walls, and the lighthouse structure.

The 360-degree view from the cupola is simply stunning, but life was far from idyllic for keepers' families stationed there throughout the year. It was only in 1923 that families were allowed to keep a small boat to take children to school, and bad weather would often cut the island off for days.

Bill Scanlan, son of a former keeper, has clear memories of that experience which he has imparted to Higgins and crew. "So we know what was grown in the garden - Bill can even remember the plants," Higgins explains, as he walks us through the cottage ruin, past a tin bath and slate water tanks, and recalls how goats and sheep were kept and seaweed and periwinkles were part of the regular "crop".

The medieval castle wall, predating the lighthouse, is still in very good condition, although overshadowed by the "ramparts" of the sewage treatment plant. The castle is a story in itself - it is believed the island was inhabited, and "held" for strategic reasons, from Anglo-Norman times. After Galway city was captured by Williamites in 1691, a fort was built and a company of soldiers garrisoned there to protect shipping in the bay.

Two years after the castle was demolished in 1815, the first light was erected. In 1958, the light became "unwatched", and was eventually extinguished and replaced by navigation buoys. The house fell derelict, and fireplaces and a sundial were among many items which vanished.

The Commissioners of Irish Lights have provided materials for the conservation project, and the city council and Galway Civic Trust have hosted public visits. A roll of honour listing former keepers is to be displayed when the project is complete.

The challenge then will be to provide some safe and regular access to the lighthouse and environs which doesn't upset the securocrats at the sewage treatment plant.

Across the water from Mutton, Grattan beach is a haunt for young marine biologists who sign up regularly for workshops at the Galway Atlantaquaria close by. The renowned British wildlife photographer Paul Kay has recently provided some photography for the aquarium's "shiny new website", to quote the words of manager Neil Campbell.

The website is "more than a marketing tool" for the aquarium, Campbell says, and has been designed in consultation with marine experts, teachers, visitors and children. The aim is not just to inform about life among the marine "residents", and give updates on news and activities at the aquarium. He hopes it will serve as a marine science resource for enthusiasts from primary to third level, and beyond.

There are profile pages on more than 25 Irish marine species, and worksheets and information packs are available at no cost to pupils and teachers who register.The address is www.nationalaquarium.ie.