"The leading purpose of the authors is to induce VISITS TO IRELAND." So runs the introduction to a book published in 1853. And it goes on to declare that Ireland will "unquestionably, supply every means of enjoyment that may be obtained in any of the Continental kingdoms, and without calling for the sacrifices of money and comfort that will be exacted in Germany, Switzerland, France and Italy." And then there are tourist tickets which ensure that there will be no delays on any conveyance or elsewhere. "Independent, therefore, of the very great saving of expense, all tourists in Ireland should obtain them." This is in the pocket edition of a condensed and rewritten handbook for travel in Ireland, by Mr and Mrs Hall, based on their earlier three-volume work. Handy size, soft canvas cover, it is one of four covering the whole country and enlivened by the excellent engravings of the bigger volumes. This is supposed to be about the North and the Giant's Causeway, but we begin in Dublin, proceed northwards by rail passing Balbriggan "which may be dignified as one of the manufacturing towns of Ireland." A footnote tells us that the stockings of Balbriggan are entirely of cotton; their originality and merit consists in their softness, fineness and durability. . ."
There is a diversion to Navan for Newgrange, Trim, and Tara. Into Newgrange they crept along, "a distance of about 60 feet, the height being no more than 18 inches and the breadth somewhat less than 24 inches. Then `the Dome' is entered. We stood where, about 2,000 years ago, the Druids offered sacrifice; or, at least, where they held their solemn meetings." Thirty pages out of 160 gone and we're not near the North.
At Belfast we get much about the industrial activity, fine engravings of the interior of a mill, of a bleaching ground and good detail about the processes. But soon we are out in the country and at Lough Neagh. And a dissertation on the Banshee, and a line-drawing of a female figure trailing clouds of cloth, barefoot and not at all frightening looking. Shane's castle has one they say; been for ages the chosen realm of the Banshee.
And there is no doubt in their minds that petrified wood is found in the Lough. They don't go as far as "the learned physician Anselm Boetius" who asserts that "that part of the tree that is buried in mud will become iron, that part touched by the water become stone and that part above the water remain wood." A rattling good read, and still a long way to go. Y.