The inhabitants think of it really as a City State, more than a mere city. A slight exaggeration, but the confidence, the verve and the nerve of them are all quite exhilarating. It has had a stormy past, it is now in a bustling state of activity. It is, or course, Derry.
They are a determined people, and a sort of raiding party of them is coming down on May 7th, according to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, to announce the City Council's new Weekend Breaks programme. You don't, if you come from the South associate, even yet, the North as a great holiday place. You are wrong, but a weekend break is an opportunity to sample the goods for yourself and then go on to a more prolonged experience.
It is in a lovely setting of river and sea. Asked what he remembered of Derry, an ancient Dublin acquaintance could only draw from his memory a notable regatta, in which, rowing in an Eight, he and his fellows sank in half a gale. Not Derry's fault and he doesn't hold it against them, for he likewise sank in the lower reaches of his native city's Liffey. Going farther afield, everyone has heard of Magilligan Strand, along the north coast of the county, and Downhill and the Mussenden temple. (What's that? Go and see it.) The mouth of the Bann, more wonderful strand and into Portstewart.
And there is nothing at all to prevent you from turning the other way, into Donegal and, say mounting the Grianan of Aileach with its marvellous views of Lough Swilly. Or going anywhere. Robin Bryans in his Ulster (Faber and Faber, 1964) became so lyrical about Derry Vale that he was moved to quote On either side the river lie; Long fields of barley and of rye . . . and so on to Camelot. And he says bearded barley did run for miles alongside.
De la Tocnaye, that spirited Frenchman who walked Ireland in 1796-7, envied greatly the Bishop (Anglican) of Derry, who had £12,000 a year. "Oh what a lovely thing it is to be an Anglican Bishop or Minister! These are the spoiled children of fortune, rich as bankers, enjoying good wine, good cheer, and pretty women, and all that for their benediction. God bless them!" Nothing of that about now.