Dinner for two with pensive pâté

Expensive tastes

Sir, – I usually enjoy restaurant reviews, especially when they nudge me towards a good and inexpensive place to eat. I read with some incredulity the review of a restaurant in Dublin in the Magazine (September 2nd). Dinner for two with one bottle of wine, plus 12 per cent inclusive service, came to €228.48.

Who can or could afford a meal for two at this price, even if it does include a “chicken liver mousseline, foamy and light texture (which) hovers on top of a far more pensive pâté”?

My grandmother, who had a restaurant on Camden Street Lower one hundred years ago, must be hovering pensively over her grave. – Yours, etc,

PATRICK O’BYRNE,

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Phibsborough,

Dublin 7.