Sir, – May I suggest that the problem with mushroom risotto (November 18th, 20th) is down to Irish chefs' insistence on persisting with the bland, closed-cup varieties? There are over 100 varieties of edible mushrooms in Ireland, each one hitting a different note on the palate. There are those that hint of oranges and roses, and others that smack of the undergrowth. They lend themselves to the fermentation of cheese and when pushed, make for a delicious home brew. – Yours, etc,
HÖRST ESSELESSER,
Clare Island, Co Mayo.