Fruits are for making into liqueurs, too, as well as for enjoying fresh and for converting into tarts and puddings and jams and preserves of one kind and another. A couple of days ago a clear yellow liquid was poured into a small glass, as delicate to the taste as it was in colour. it was a comparative rarity - quince liqueur, made from the real quince cydonia oblonga, known to some as the truffle of the orchard not for a common taste or smell, but because of its elusiveness and celebrity. in these islands, anyway.
This liqueur had been nine months in the jar. It was simply made. The quinces, from friends Jack and Ann Whaley of Bloomsbury, Kells, were broken up in the food processor until they became more or less breadcrumb texture, then spooned into large sweet jars almost to the top. You put in a quarter pound of caster sugar, and immediately pour in your spirits - in this case vodka, as being most neutral in taste and thus allowing the quince to come through in all its subtlety.
Joe Grigson's Fruit Book recommends that some of the harder fruits, including quince, pear, nectarine and others, be left for twelve months to develop. Well, you can have some a bit earlier and leave the rest to grow in strength. Very important, the fruit must always be completely covered by the liquid. Most popular of all these home made recipes is undoubtedly sloe gin, and in eastern parts of the country so far visited, sloes are, for the second year, of unusual size, and plentiful to boot.
But you don't have to wait for long months in every case. She says that strawberry gin and raspberry vodka are delightful, too. And, with the softer fruits you don't have to wait so long. At least a month should be left, while often the interval between harvest and Christmas is just right. You need to strain well, with close linen, or "double muslin" in her case. Some people, apparently, drain off a little liqueur as they need it and then top up with spirit. For the harder fruit, mind you, she recommends first making a syrup. Not everyone bothers.
You should get hold of her book; it is a large Penguin and is also funny and anecdotal as well as being wise. Of course the commercial making of liqueurs goes to fantastic lengths. You've seen Pear Williams with a full pear in the liquid. Imagine bottling the tiny pearlet until it grows, on the branch, to half fill a squatty bottle sometimes pear shaped. Then spirit is added. Tastes delicious.