Traditions at Christmas are not static. A friend recently wrote of how his family's Christmas has evolved. "The season always began with the opening of the first Advent calendar windows. But nowadays it is impossible to find the traditional calendar, with its scene of an alpine village deep in snow, alight with glitter. Some traditions, though, still survive. Every Sunday in Advent the family eats those delicious German biscuits - Lebkuchen - spiced with cinnamon.
"The Christmas tree is still lit with real candles. The candleholders have been passed down through the generations, from grandparents in Germany, to parents in England and now to the son in Ireland. In the past, none of the family saw the tree, which father decorated on his own, until the evening of Christmas Eve, when the real celebrations began. The first sight of the tree was when (having been summoned by father with an alpine cowbell) the family entered the sitting room, which flickered in the light of the candle-lit tree, and then exchanged gifts.
"The cowbell is still used, and presents are still given on Christmas Eve, but the family has succumbed to the temptation to enjoy the tree for the week before Christmas and has even augmented candlelight with electric light (but never at the same time!). The candles always add a frisson of danger to Christmas. Not for a moment can you take your eyes off the tree in case a branch was to catch alight.
"But over the years and generations, expertise has developed in selecting the most suitable tree for candles (one with well-interspersed branches) and in placing the candles safely.
"Food, too, has changed. The traditional German Christmas Eve meal was always carp, but when the family moved to England before the war, carp was not to be found. So hare was substituted and became the new tradition. But now the Irish family has replaced hare with ham. The spicy red cabbage, though, has survived through those three generations.
"As always, the family goes to Midnight Mass. Unlike their friends who have to wait until Christmas Day, they have the satisfied look on their faces of people who have already started their traditional Christmas - and received their presents. And the next day it begins all over again with the Irish traditions. Only token gifts in the stocking, but just as big a turkey, and with all the trimmings." Thanks for the three-nation review. Y