It seems something of a paradigm shift is happening when it comes to buying sustainably and embracing the circular economy.
What we used to call second-hand shopping has been rebranded as thrifting or vintage, and savvy shoppers enthusiastically compare their unique finds. It’s also become easier than ever to shop sustainably, with online resale platforms doing a roaring trade – An Post recently introduced a prepaid €6 box or package in order to simplify selling unwanted items.
According to Corina Gaffey, stylist and regular contributor to The Irish Times, the word second-hand has had a complete overhaul, making it sound more desirable and reshaping how it’s perceived and valued.
“Second-hand often came with preconceived ideas; the items were dirty, grubby, old or unwanted,” she says. “Vintage sounds exclusive and has a heritage feel to the meaning, while preloved, at the root, has an emotional feeling, making it seem sentimental. The reframing also emphasises the positive outcome of the circular economy – reducing waste, recycling and re-wearing.”
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The rise of rental and resell is also helping to reframe and educate about the effects of fast fashion and reduce over-consumption. Gaffey says today’s consumers are more educated about how clothes are made and the foibles of fast fashion.
“They have a renewed interest in vintage and preloved from a unique perspective, economically and environmentally.”
She adds that it’s also about affordability.
“Online peer-to-peer retailers like Depop or Vinted are where you can find pieces at a fraction of the cost that the high street will charge, and designer items can be sourced at less than premium prices,” she explains.
Local charity shops can unearth some gems but Gaffey notes that this can require “patience and digging, so reserve a couple of hours”.
“Finding something unique that not everyone will have is a pro, as quality and timeliness are appreciated. Quality is another pro of shopping for preloved items, as many vintage pieces are made with higher craftsmanship than more modern fashion.”
High street retailers are even getting in on the act, with fashion behemoths like Zara and Cos now offering resell options.
“Anything that promotes the circular economy reduces clothing in landfills and creates awareness, which is essential to acknowledge,” says Gaffey. “Still, it must come with a deeper understanding, change, and broader commitment to sustainability.”
Gráinne Lambert is director of The Rediscovery Centre in Ballymun, which is the national centre for the circular economy in Ireland. A not-for-profit charity, it encompasses a number of social enterprises that all focus on seeing waste as a resource. For example, Rediscover Paint takes paint from recycling centres and remixes them.
“We then sell it in our eco store for a fraction of the original cost, but it’s great quality,” explains Lambert. Similarly, they take damaged bicycles from recycling centres and upcycle them on site, again selling them on for a greatly reduced price.
“We use the bikes to help communities have access to more affordable bikes, and it just shows that people shopping sustainably doesn’t have to be expensive, it can be quite affordable,” Lambert says.
She believes when it comes to sustainable consumption, it boils down to two things – education and ease of access.
“When you know better you do better and people are now far more aware of the environment and the positive impact of sustainability, and they want those options. People even see the economic benefits to it, they are not only helping the environment, they are ending up with more money in their pocket because of it, it’s a win for them.”
People may not have the Rediscovery Centre on their doorstep, but Lambert cites Adverts and Facebook Marketplace as two online goldmines when it comes to buying furniture, for example.
“Sometimes things just don’t work for people, a piece of furniture for their house may be too big, so you buy it for a fraction of the cost and you’ve got a great story behind it.”
She agrees with Gaffey that attitudes have completely changed towards second-hand shopping in this regard.
“People prefer it to something they have just bought from a big chain. We buy second-hand cars and second-hand houses without even thinking about it, so removing the stigma from buying preloved items is overdue.”
Colette Devey, EY Ireland consulting partner and consumer sector lead, says their research has clearly illustrated shifting consumer attitudes.
“The Future Consumer Index from EY reveals a global shift towards sustainability-focused consumers, increasingly acknowledging the reality of climate change and adjusting their consumption habits accordingly,” she explains, noting that the research discovered that 61 per cent of people are aiming to be more conscious of the environmental impact of their consumption, and almost two-thirds of those surveyed are gearing up to pay more attention to the environmental impact of their purchases in the next three years.
The growing trend, Devey acknowledges, is to reuse, recycle and repair, if possible, to extend products’ life cycle, reduce waste, and minimise the environmental impact of consumption.
“But while this concept is gaining traction as awareness of the environmental impact of waste and the finite nature of natural resources is better understood, there is a lot more to do to improve our performance in terms of circularity of material reuse,” she says.
“Nobody knew what the circular economy was a few years ago but really it’s just common sense,” Lambert says. “It’s about ‘make, take, reuse’ rather than ‘make, take, dispose’.”