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Destination Seville: Elegant oases in Andalusia’s capital

Business travellers can take the heat out of sunny Seville in secluded glades and cool courtyards

Seville's Royal Alcázar is a tourist magnet, so booking online way in advance is a must before you visit
Seville's Royal Alcázar is a tourist magnet, so booking online way in advance is a must before you visit

Seville is a terrific place for a business trip; indeed, one of its biggest visitor attractions was built especially to promote business.

The Plaza de España was designed as part of Expo 29, the Ibero-American world’s fair that was hosted by the city almost a century ago. Still today it’s a marvel, laid out in a monumental crescent for tourists to wander and enjoy, with bridges and benches and what can only be described as a moat.

Somewhat incongruously, as you wander its intricately tiled walkways you’ll be bumping up against local-authority staff for whom the exquisite edifice is simply work.

Directly across from the plaza is an even greater gem, particularly if you’re travelling to Andalusia’s capital in the height of summer (a word of caution: don’t). María Luisa Park is Seville’s most famous green space. Its shady glades constitute a genuine oasis from which to escape a heat so searing that even the locals tend to flee.

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The park was originally part of the gardens of San Telmo Palace, the gorgeous red and orange edifice that is currently the seat of the regional government. These Andalusians, they know how to office. The baroque palace dates from the 17th century and its grounds were donated to the public more than two centuries later. Today it’s a beautiful spot to wander and sit, listening to the tinkling fountains and watching the city’s ubiquitous green parrots flit from tree to tree.

The main tourist magnet is the Royal Alcázar palace, actually a group of palaces surrounded by a wall and a must-see for any visitor. Just remember to book online – and way in advance – as it sells out fast. If possible book a guided tour too. The complex dates from the 10th century and swung back and forth from caliphate to Catholicism so there’s loads to learn about. It’s worth visiting for the garden alone, with its Moorish influences, teeming with walkways, water features and delicate pavilions.

For such an urban destination, Seville is blessed with green spaces, many of them tucked away in shady courtyards accessed by ticket.

For a full-frontal assault on the senses, don’t miss Casa de Pilatos, a Romanesque urban villa, with a stunning flower-filled courtyard competing for your attention with the exquisite tiling on the surrounding walls. It’s a delight.

The Casa de Pilatos, a Romanesque villa with a flower-filled courtyard whose walls are exquisitely tiled
The Casa de Pilatos, a Romanesque villa with a flower-filled courtyard whose walls are exquisitely tiled

The Torre del Oro, or Golden Tower – named for the gold tiles in which it was originally clad – sounds nice but it’s actually quite dull inside. Instead, head straight for La Giralda, the bell tower of the cathedral which was originally the minaret of a mosque.

It doesn’t have steps, praise be to whomever, but instead the bell tower is reached via a series of 35 ramps, designed to allow it to be climbed on horseback, which must have been quite the thrill.

Today even the weariest pedestrian is rewarded, with a panorama that stretches for miles. Such are the hordes ascending it that visitors are swept all the way up, very often at the pace of excited children on a school tour. You’ve no choice but to hurry with them – whatever about equines – as there’s no space to stand in and let them pass.

If you’re on a short trip, or a hectic schedule, at least make time to take a hop-on hop-off city bus tour. Tickets are for sale just outside the Golden Tower and will whisk you past all the main sites including Triana, one of the most famous neighbourhoods in the city.

If possible, plan your trip during the city’s April Fair to see one of Spain’s most famous festivals. For this you’ll definitely have to book your accommodation far in advance but it’s worth it to see Andalusians flock in from around the region, many in traditional dress – men, women and children alike. Families and businesses rent stalls for a week and treat their guests to a feast of food, drink and dance, long into the night.

A great option to stay, for business or pleasure, is the Hotel Eurostars Guadalquivir, just around the corner from both the fairgrounds at Los Remedios and Triana, and a short walk to the historic centre, with enormous breakfasts and even bigger beds, plus more mundane business items such as meeting rooms and gym.

Sandra O'Connell

Sandra O'Connell

Sandra O'Connell is a contributor to The Irish Times