Ireland's summer tour: It was hardly the standard pre-Test preparation, the Ireland squad filing through Customs and Immigration at the tiny Nuku'Alofa airport in the capital of Tonga at 2.30 a.m. yesterday, writes John O'Sullivan from Tonga.
The tiny carousel could barely cope with the volume of baggage.
Despite the pre-dawn arrival, a small knot of curious locals had gathered to watch the visitors as they ambled towards the team bus for the 15-mile drive to the International Dateline Hotel. It confirmed the supposition that Tongan rugby is, in terms of financial resources, a Third World country.
Prior to travelling, and in order to minimise the amount of gear required to be transported, the IRFU asked their Tongan counterparts to provide 11 rugby balls for the Irish training. The response was that they could muster a couple.
There was a further tentative inquiry as to whether it would be possible to furnish the Irish squad with 14 tackle suits, to which the response was, "What's a tackle suit". Instead, Ireland bought the requisite items in New Zealand en route.
The Tongans weren't being obdurate, it's just that their resources are a fraction of what most international teams can call upon. Indeed, they have already proved engaging hosts, all requests complied with, complete with a warm smile.
That is, all bar one, which led to something of a mix-up. The Irish squad thought they have been allotted a 3.0p.m. training slot at the Teufaiva International stadium, but when they got there they found that the Tongan squad were already ensconced, having arrived minutes earlier.
Ireland coach Eddie O'Sullivan admitted: "We were told that we were training at the national stadium but that was changed at the last minute."
So off to Tepou College for boys aged between 12 and 19, its most famous past pupil the "Tongan Torpedo" Willie Ofahengaue, who went on to became a celebrated Australian number eight and World Cup winner.
Ofahengaue's case history is a classic illustration of the plight that Tonga and their Pacific Islands neighbours, Samoa and Fiji, face in trying to develop as rugby nations. Australia and New Zealand pillage the top players, with scholarships to schools a huge incentive for talented islanders.
Jim Love, the New Zealander who coaches Tonga, mused: "The challenge is to have players available. We have them in Wales, France and Italy, but because of contractual arrangements they don't come home.
"There is a huge number that have gone on to play for the All Blacks and Australia. Some just play one match, like Sevens or A internationals. Isitolo Maka would be an example."
The Kefu brothers, Steve and Toutai, who played for Australia against Ireland last weekend, are Tonga-born. Team manager Bruce Manson admitted: "We are struggling to find 50 players to fulfil World Cup obligations."
Love, who coached the New Zealand Maoris to 27 consecutive victories four years ago, including the thrashing of a weakened England team, is underwhelmed by his team's prospects on Saturday. "I have a huge respect for Ireland. Our guys will be stretched to stay with them."
Tonga warmed up for this match by drawing 10-10 with a New Zealand Divisional side made up of players from the second and third divisions (Leinster fans please note: Eddie Hekenui was playing outhalf for the Kiwi team). Love was adamant that his side should have won by 30 points against a team that Ireland thrashed by 60 points on last summer's tour to New Zealand.
Ireland trained for 90 minutes at Tepou College, watched by a large gathering of pupils, who were prone to bouts of clapping in appreciation of some dextrous handling. The post-session analysis? "Paddy Wallace still has a problem with his foot while Eric (Miller) got a dead leg."
Ground conditions at the stadium could charitably be described as concrete. O'Sullivan will announce the team to play Tonga today - the home side do likewise - and will settle on a strong line-up.
"Samoa probably have the better record at the moment but I don't think there are any easy games when you're playing in this part of the world. It'll be very physical and they'll be trying to get a scalp."
Whatever about Ireland's disruptions, they were small beer compared to the host nation's logistical problems. The Tongan team are staying in the Pacific Royale hotel, but, due to a mix-up, two of the squad ended up sleeping on the floor of a second-storey lounge.
No drama though, just quiet acceptance - it didn't dampen their enthusiasm nor, one expects, their pride in the red jersey, which will undoubtedly surface come Test time on Saturday.
