Miriam Donohoe, Asia Correspondent, gets caught up inthe football fever that is sweeping China as they prepare to appear in theirfirst World Cup finalsNational coachBora "Milu" Milutinovic: "I can't read Chinesecharacters, I don't know what they are saying nor do I want it translated."
China is in the throes of a new revolution as hundreds of millions look forward to the country's first participation in the World Cup finals. There is no getting away from the football fever gripping the land. "World Cup" french fries are on sale in all McDonalds, giant posters of the national team stars stare out from billboards, and state television is bombarding viewers with re-runs of classic World Cup games and China's qualifying match goals.
Walk down any street, and you'll meet a trader trying to sell you a World Cup T-shirt, hat, or the white and red national team strip.
The China coach, Serbia-born Bora Milutinovic, affectionately known in China as "Milu", is a national hero after steering the team to the finals. He can be seen nightly on television advertising everything from pain-killers to soft drinks.
"It is incredible. I have never seen anything like this before, not even when Beijing won the bid for Olympics," says one Chinese soccer writer. "The whole country is waiting in anticipation and will be holding its breath when the team takes to the pitch for its first game. Soccer fever is something that has hit everyone, from the top leaders in the Politburo to the poorest of peasants."
While English Premiership stars such as David Beckham and Michael Owen are big names here, the new golden era for Chinese soccer has produced home-grown heroes. The new idol is defender Sun Jihai, who in August will become the first Chinese player to appear in the English Premiership after being signed by Manchester City last month.
The national team has only three players playing abroad: Sun, Fan Zhiyi of Dundee and Yang Chen for Eintracht Frankfurt in Germany's second division.
It must be remembered that professional soccer is still in its infancy in China, having started here just under a decade ago. It attracts an assortment of players from eastern Europe, South America, and Africa.
There are approximately 100 million diehard fans in China counting down the days to the World Cup in South Korea and Japan later this month. While the exact figure is not known, it is estimated that 40,000 fans will travel to South Korea to cheer on the national team, who face Costa Rica, Brazil and Turkey in their Group C, first round games.
To prepare for the invasion, South Korea has opened direct flights from southern China to Kwangju, one of the World Cup destinations. And a "Chinatown" is under construction at another of China's World Cup venues. South Korean promotions have been held in Chinese cities to prepare travelling fans for the trip.
This mass exodus has not been without its problems, however. One of the three travel agents given a licence by the communist government to bring fans to Korea has been black-listed by the authorities because, during a recent trip, 43 of the party failed to return.
The Korean authorities are happy to have Chinese custom for the duration of the World Cup, but they are anxious fans don't overstay their welcome. They fear thousands from China's unemployment-ravaged north-east will use the World Cup as a vehicle for illegal immigration and seek to integrate themselves into the existing Chinese minority in Korea.
As a result, Chinese fans face strict travel restrictions. The South Korean authorities are imposing a hefty bond of $9,000 on fans travelling from certain poor parts of China. The message is clear: "Stay in Korea and you don't get your money back."
Meanwhile back at home, the Chinese authorities are fearful that with the eyes of the world on Asia for the finals, dissident groups will use the tournament to protest in front of a global audience.
Public security officials are concerned that, for example, members of the banned Falun Gong spiritual sect will disguise themselves as fans and stage demonstrations denouncing the Chinese government.
The Chinese Foreign Ministry has posted guidelines on its website telling fans how to behave. It warns them not to bring objects that could pose a threat to public order, and warns them not to carry banners or pamphlets with political, religious or ideological messages.
The guidelines also ask fans not to be violent or abuse drugs or alcohol.
All fans will be issued with a special red and white uniform and hat. The Chinese Football Association (CFA) says this will help the travelling army to make a bigger visual and vocal impact at games. But others say it is a good way for the authorities to keep an eye on all those who travel over to Korea.
The reality is that excessive prices and the tight visa restrictions imposed by the South Korean government will mean that few ordinary Chinese fans will see their team perform in the World Cup.
According to the president of the China Federation of Soccer Fans, Wang Wen, expensive tour packages will keep most genuine fans at home. The federation has two million registered fans nationwide.
Prices start from $1,200 for a three-day trip including one match, and up to $3,600 for a 10-day tour including all three first round games. Given that the average national salary is $1,800, these prices are beyond the reach of most.
"The packages are too costly for the ordinary fan who has been saving up his whole life for the opportunity to see China play in the World Cup," Wang says. "The tickets are being bought by state and private companies who will use them as gifts or rewards for their employees."
But anger over high prices and the reams of red tape are not taking away from the excitement.
"This is what soccer fans have been waiting for for years and now the day has arrived and they are ecstatic about qualification," says Dong Jun, a sports commentator with English-language radio station CRI. Interestingly enough, he says many of the ardent soccer supporters in China have never kicked a ball in their life.
"I know when I was in high school, basketball and table tennis dominated and I remember at one stage we had an argument with the school authorities because we were one of the few schools with a soccer pitch yet they wouldn't let us play it. The reality is that in the eighties, in the whole west of Beijing with perhaps one million or more students, there were only five or so schools with pitches," says Dong Jun.
Facilities have improved since then, he says, but he points out that population density still works against building new pitches.
"Clearly, basketball courts and table tennis tables take up a lot less space and there are cities that couldn't contemplate devoting big areas for soccer pitches. But I think with China in the World Cup, you are going to see a big push now to promote the game at grassroots level," he adds.
The man who has made this miracle happen, Milu, has travelled extensively around the country since qualification and agrees the momentum and support for the game is growing.
"I am meeting many young kids who want to play now, and they look on the players who play in the national team as heroes. It wasn't always like this," he told The Irish Times.
Milu says qualification will do countless good for the image of the game in China. He has told the football association that they should be developing programmes now that would put China to the forefront as one of the top football countries in the world over the next 20-30 years.
Already buoyed by their success in securing the Olympic Games for 2008 in Beijing, the Chinese have every reason to believe they will be the hosts when the World Cup next comes to Asia.
One of the real winners of these finals will be China's State Central Television, CCTV, which is charging a record $400,000 a minute for prime advertising slots during the finals. It hopes to make $50 million.
A survey conducted by the CCTV Markets Research Co showed that more than 90 per cent of Chinese viewers would watch the World Cup, and 76.6 per cent of viewers who seldom watch soccer will tune in.
The advertising slots are due to be auctioned by the state broadcaster next week, with CCTV keen to get a good return for the World Cup rights. It is estimated it paid $25 million for the rights to screen the tournaments this year and in 2006.
According to Guo Zhenxi, director of CCTV's advertising division, the value of the World Cup is self-evident.
"There is only a one hour time difference between here and South Korea. We expect viewing figures of eight billion over the period of the tournament, compared with 2.8 billion in 1998."
Reaching the finals will boost consumer spending in the economy, according to an economist with National Australia Bank, Kevin Lai.
"People are going to be getting together and having a drink with their friends and families to see the games. There is going to be a general feel-good atmosphere which is going to support the retail sector," he said.
The authorities launched a special World Cup lottery last month and all the matches in the first round will feature in lottery games. Lottery tickets are being sold in 28 provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions around the country.
China may be newcomers to the World Cup, but the public and media here are renowned for the pressure they place on Chinese international competitors. Midway through the qualifying stages, there were calls for coach Milu's head after his side drew tamely with North Korea in a friendly. If China perform poorly in South Korea, it is likely that fans and media will turn against him and the team.
"There is very little between success and failure in sport but, because I can't read Chinese characters, I don't know what they are saying nor do I want it translated," Milu said after the North Korea draw.
But, already, the monetary rewards for soccer success are being dangled.
One home appliance manufacturer, the Midea Group, has pledged to donate $12,000 to the football association for each goal scored by the Chinese team.
In typical Communist style, the CFA chief, Yan Shiduo, has urged the national team to set their sights on the achievement of The Three Ones - one goal, one draw, one win.
Most Chinese soccer fans, though, won't settle for the Three Ones - unless it brings with it a place in the second round.
