A sign of the times. A Kerry supporter, in his late teens, asking a Garda on the North Circular Road for directions to Croke Park. "Left," says the Garda. "Right," says the man with number 15 on the back of his jersey, a devotee of Maurice Fitzgerald. The path he followed down Jones' Road was well worn by his predecessors' feet, but these have been barren All-Ireland years for the Kingdom. "Haven't seen youse for a while, this time of year," says the Dub standing outside The Big Tree, as another group of Kerry supporters march by. "You'll be seeing plenty of us from now on boy - the Kingdom's back." Further on up the road, outside another pub, stand three distraught, ticketless Mayo fans. "He said he'd meet us HERE," says one. Only 20 minutes to kick-off, time is running out. The man with the tickets has gone AWOL and their All-Ireland final dream is fading. Bad start to the day for Mayo. Will it get worse?
Through the turnstiles. You know those awful airport scenes when the family gathers to bid farewell to an emigrating brother, sister, son, or daughter? Well, under the Hogan Stand, there was a similar scene as one Mayo family, lucky enough to get tickets for the final - but not lucky enough to be seated beside each other - hugged and kissed and wished each other well. Then they separated to take their seats for the longest journey of all. The All-Ireland final journey. Lots of turbulence ahead.
Inside the stadium. Climb those steps, sharp intake of breadth, Croke Park on All-Ireland final day, what a picture. Mayo on the red and green Hill, Kerry in the green and gold Canal End. All eyes on the corner between the Hogan Stand and the Canal End, waiting for the teams to appear. They slip out, almost unnoticed at first, from under the new Cusack Stand. What else can a Presidentless nation do but ask the Taoiseach to greet the teams? Dublin in the Rare Auld Times greets Bertie. He warmly shakes hands with the Kerry captain, Liam Hassett. He'll never get the Dublin vote again, Kerry inflicted too much pain on his constituents in bygone years. (Not forgiven, never forgotten). The parade. A Mexican wave of sound and colour follows the teams around the field. The smoke from the flares on the Hill and the Canal temporarily gives Croke Park that smoggy Indonesian feel. The roar at the end of Amhran na bhFiann would . . . what's it they say? Put goosebumps on goosebumps. Croke Park on All-Ireland final day? Nothing like it.
The throw-in. We're off. It's looking grim for Mayo. Kerry 0-4, Mayo 0-0. "We could do with a goal," says a despondent Mayo supporter. "I'd settle for a point," says his fellow county man. It's become the Maurice Fitzgerald show. "Give it to Maurice, give to Maurice - GIVE IT TO MAURICE," shout the Kerry supporters any time a Kerry player, who doesn't have 15 on his back, gets possession. They give it to Maurice and he scores. Second half. Liam McHale sets the Mayo mood. Grits his teeth in the first minute, wins possession, palms off the attention of three Kerry players, basketball-style, and puts fire in the bellies of his team mates. The Hill roars. Paidi O Se's face appears on the big screen, 65,000 people get a fright. Paidi is a formidable enough figure life size, but, magnified to fill the giant screen, he's terrifying. Then, Mayo penalty! The Hill turns its back on Kieran McDonald as he steps up to take it under the Canal End. Facing Mecca? A quick prayer? No, facing the big screen. He shoots, he scores and the Hill roars. Mayo are back. Substitute James Horan adds two more points and the Hill is jumpin'. Then big, bad Maurice ruins the party by converting two frees. Mayo miss a string of chances.
"One of the Mayo boys is getting married next Saturday," offers a voice in the crowd, as if to explain their reluctance to force a replay. Final whistle. Sam's going home.
"Same old story. Same old story. Can't score, you know? We can do everything else, but we can't score," says a dejected Mayo man, making his way to the train.
Meanwhile. "He's coming home, he's coming home, he's coming, Sam is coming home," sings the Kerry teenager. He knows his way to Croke Park now. And he likes the journey. Intends making it an annual September trip too. The Kingdom is back.
