Golfing Destinations/Cyprus: Philip Reid finds a new location for the enthusiastic golfer and some of the most challenging courses
It's as you take the slip road off the motorway that runs from Limassol to Pafos that the sandstones resembling two tall pillars are to be seen in the blue sea beneath. They are close to a place called Aphrodite's Birthplace, and local lore has it that anyone who swims out and around the two natural features will be lucky in love.
As yet, there is no indication such an adventuresome activity will bring any good fortune on the golf course. But maybe the Cypriots should also add that to the lore, for a little way inland and up a twisting, hilly road lies a course called Aphrodite Hills. It has been constructed on mountainous terrain, on two plateaux some 1,000 feet high and overlooking the Mediterranean, and it is a course sufficiently good, and demanding, to finally put Cyprus on the golfing map.
Some places in the world offer wall-to-wall golf courses to tourists. Cyprus doesn't. In fact, it boasts just three courses - on an island that is the third largest in the Mediterranean - but the small number of courses shouldn't deter anyone from making a golfing pilgrimage to the isle. If Aphrodite Hills is the jewel, the other two courses - Secret Valley and Tsada - are gems, and quite different from the showpiece course.
Cabell Robinson, an American who worked with Robert Trent Jones Snr, was the architect at Aphrodite Hills. Apart from a huge, natural ravine that bisected the intended site (and which was left untouched in the development), he also had to contend with the presence of many artefacts on the land. On the eastern edge of the plateau, there are at least two caves carved in hard rock and which are believed to be ancient burial chambers, while two settlement sites - one Roman-Byzantine dating 200BC to 200AD - were also discovered during construction of the course.
In fact, the discovery of ruins on what is now the eighth hole led to a delay in construction work for nearly a year so that archaeological experts could determine their extent and importance. Also, a number of old limestone kilns were found and, demonstrating the designer's imaginative mind, Robinson cleverly changed his design to include them in the course layout as what are known as "kiln bunkers." "No-one can dig around an island with 10,000 years of history and civilisation without bumping into something of interest," remarked Robinson.
In many ways, Aphrodite Hills is an American-style course which has been transplanted onto this Mediterranean island and there are also similarities to La Cala in Spain, which was also designed on mountainous terrain by Robinson. In an Irish context, Robinson also worked with Trent Jones on the second course at Ballybunnion and, since arriving in Europe in 1970, was also involved in the designs of Sotogrande and Las Brisas.
His work is good, and his design philosophy simple. "Golf is a game of temptations, decision-making, crises of confidence. It should be mentally exciting. As with life itself, there is no rule that says it should always be fair," insisted Robinson.
There is no doubt that the course at Aphrodite Hills has been built to the highest specifications: the fairways are bermuda grass and, fulfilling Robinson's design philosophy, all bunkers are visible off the tee and on approach shots. Michael Stagnetto, who has joined the development as Director of Golf, having previously worked in Almenara in Spain, said: "This course will meet the expectations of the discerning golfer who has played throughout the world, as well as the occasional player interested in a holiday round."
At Aphrodite Hills, there are some holes that are good; and a number that are great. The archaeological influence is apparent on the very first hole, as an 18th century kiln lies in the fairway (don't worry, it is a free drop area) while the canyon that greets anyone coming off the second green and making their way to the third tee is one of the most intimidating sights in golf .
Again, don't worry, this particular tee - with a carry of 225 yards over the ravine - is only used by professionals. The rest of us carry on to the far side, and play the hole as a par four.
Of all the holes, though, the one that will remain in the memory bank longer than any other is the seventh, a par three of 230 yards (off the back stakes). Driving a motorised cart down the pathway from the sixth green is probably an experience in itself - there are more twists and turns than in the Monaco Grand Prix - but the hole is a little beauty, with no bail out area and a requirement to find a large green with many subtle undulations.
Probably the most demanding par four on the course is the 16th. The drive is hit to a fairway that slopes to the right - where there is a cluster of bunkers - and the approach shot is a demanding one to a relatively flat green.
"We have converted an abandoned run-down area of subsistence agriculture into a well-maintained productive green zone. Forgetting for the moment the economic benefits the course will garner for a tourist-based economy such as Cyprus, we have also enabled this previously near-inaccessible area to be enjoyed for the future by thousands of people every year. I may be prejudiced, but I can only view this opening up of a lovely inland area as a very positive thing," said Robinson.
The three courses in Cyprus are clustered to the south-western end of the island; there are plans for another five courses to be developed within the next five years as the realisation that golf is a powerful tourism tool are appreciated. And, certainly, it is a new destination for the Irish market - with flights from Dublin - that gives the sun-chasing golfer a genuine alternative to the likes of Spain and Portugal.
At one juncture on the back nine at Aphrodite Hills, you can look down the mountain to a valley. And, there, you'll spy a course known as Secret Valley and, in truth, a round here is both a surprise and a delight. The variety of holes is such that all aspects of a player's game are tested but it is its location - surrounded by multi-hued rock faces - that adds a surreal touch to the whole experience.
There are ongoing discussions with the PGA European Tour relating to the prospect of holding a Seniors Tour tournament at Secret Valley next year.
This course opened for play in 1996 and it has matured nicely, with many mature trees lining the fairway - but stray off the desired line and it is not only trees that provide an obstacle as there are many rocky areas complete with bushes to torment the errant player.
Probably the best hole on the outward journey is the fifth, a par four of 460 yards (off the back) which demands a long and accurate drive. There is a line of towering trees on the right and large mounding on the left and anything other than a perfect drive to the narrow fairway will put the green out of reach in two. On the back nine, there are a couple of drivable par fours - but variety is the spice of life.
Tsada golf course is a sister course to Secret Valley, both coming under the umbrella of Cyprus Golf Resorts. The hand of designer Donald Steel is to be found in the layout at Tsada, a course located some 1,500 feet above sea level on a site which houses the 12th century monastery of Stavos tis Minthis. From the seventh tee, it is possible to see the monks working in the garden of the monastery.
Designed in two loops of nine, the course at Tsada - the first to be built in Cyprus, opening in 1994 - is completely different from either Aphrodite Hills or Secret Valley. In many ways, there is an Alpine feel to it - similar to courses in Austria or Germany - with fir trees lining many fairways. There are also fruit trees and grape vines on the course, which is very playable for players of all levels. Green fees at Tsada and Secret Valley are around € 50, while a round at Aphrodite Hills costs around €90 (buggy mandatory).
