Christmas is just around the corner, and with it comes a world of overindulgence and gluttony. For the most part the recipes in this column will dive straight in to standard favourites, so expect plenty of comfort and rich flavours in the weeks ahead. But that’s in the future.
This week I thought I would put us through some “pre-season” recipes – heavy on flavour without weighing you down. The winter season throws up a range of ingredients that make for beautiful salads and starter dishes. When it comes to writing menus, I’m thinking of roots and spices, fruit and fragrances: beetroot, pumpkin, kale, mushrooms, nutmeg, all spice, pear, plum, honey and so on; they’d warm you up thinking about them. What you might not see in them, however, are salads.
This week I’m showcasing two types that are perfect for a midweek meal, lunch on the run or even as a Christmas starter or side.
The first is a mix that might surprise your guests: beetroot, chorizo and pear, all glued together with the addition of some dressed yoghurt. Beetroot is bursting with flavour, and is brought to life by roasting in its skin in some salt and oil. Almost meat-like in texture, it comes alive with the addition of some nicely ripened, sweet pear.
If you’re afraid it’s all a bit too light, the addition of spicy roasted chorizo brings the heat and seasoning, its bright red oil adding to the dressing on the plate. It may not be a combination you’ll see that often, but I think it works beautifully.
The second salad is based around freekeh, a grain derived from green wheat before it is dried and ground to flour. It’s then roasted to add to its flavour before cooking in stock. It’s origins can be found in cooking around the Mediterranean, particularly in North Africa and the Middle East and it lends itself to sponging up big flavours.
I’ve served it here with chunks of pumpkin, pomegranate and a dressing made with clementine for that Christmas twist, toasted cumin works lovely with the citrus. Don’t mind salad leaves, I’ve ripped up loads of punchy mint here for the greenery, freshening everything up before we head into December. Get the eating pants on.
