I may have been guilty of not paying sufficient attention to South African wines over the past few years. I’m not sure why, because there are some great wines. In order to remedy matters a little, I plan to give it my full attention, starting with the white wines.
South Africa produces some great sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, but no article would be complete without chenin blanc. It is called steen in South Africa and is the most widely planted variety. It is thought it was one of the first grapes to be planted here in the mid-17th century and may have been brought over by Huguenots fleeing the Loire Valley, the original home of chenin blanc. For many years chenin did not have a great reputation, and a large proportion of the crop was distilled into brandy.
It is only in recent years that producers began taking it seriously, and there are now plenty of excellent wines, as well as plenty of easy-drinking, inexpensive wines. Chenin blanc varies in style from crisp and light to richer more textured wines, and even some great sweet wines too. The less expensive wines can be quite sweet, but good examples worth seeking out for less than €20 include the MAN Family Organic Chenin Blanc (€16.95), the Delheim Chenin Blanc (€15.95/€11.95) and Delheim Wild Yeast (€19.95) all from O’Briens, and the Badenhorst Secateurs (€19.99) from independents.
The majority of chenin in South Africa is grown in the Paarl, Swartland and Olifants River regions. It is also widely grown in the central part of the Loire Valley. However, they taste completely different from those grown in South Africa.
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Percheron Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2023 Coastal Region
13%, €14
Tasty textured plump peaches and nectarines with a tangy finish. Try this with richer seafood dishes, creamy chicken or vegetable gratins.
Very widely available from independents including Fresh; La Touche, Greystones; Coach House D14; Cass & Co Waterford; MacGuinness, Wines Dundalk; Drinks Store, D7; Number 21 Off Licences; Shiels, Malahide; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; The Vintry, D6; Gibneys Malahide; The Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Ave
Ladybird Sur Lie Chenin Blanc 2022, Simonsberg-Stellenbosh
13%, €23.95
Broad, ripe, spicy baked apples and pears; lightly honeyed with lovely depth of fruit. Try it with scallops or lighter chicken dishes.
From Baggot Street Wines; Bradleys, Cork; Clontarf Wines; Wineonline.ie; Blackrock Cellar
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Mullineux Old Vines White 2023, Swartland
14%, €38-40
Crystalline, pure nose; rich broad but elegant yellow fruits, with lovely weight and style finishing on a saline note. Wonderful wine.
From RainbowNationWines.ie; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Mitchell & Son, Sandycove & The Vaults, Harcourt Street
Spice Route Tarragon Chenin Blanc 2023, Swartland
13%, €24-27
This has real intensity of fruit; succulent, mouth-watering peaches and nectarines with a spicy note, balanced by plenty of refreshing acidity.
From WineOnline.ie; Martins, D3; Redmonds, D6; RainbowNationWines.ie; Matson’s, Cork
