The news before Christmas that Locks Restaurant on Windsor Terrace in Portobello was to close and reopen under new management unsettled more than a few regulars of this much-loved, neighbourhood haven tucked away along a leafy canal-bank setting.
When the news emerged, for some it was a change too far in a dining landscape that seems to be in constant churn, and where tasting menus and shared plates have become the order of the day. Locks holds a special place in many people’s hearts thanks largely to its consistent quality and the role it has played for years as a “special occasion” venue.
When the newly refurbished restaurant reopens this Saturday after a modest facelift and a name change to Lena (pronounced Lay-na), regulars’ concerns will hopefully be allayed. For a start, there’s strong culinary provenance behind the new order, and it’s not all new either. Chef Paul McNamara had already held a share of Locks with owner Conor O’Dowd, before buying him out last year and bringing in pals and business partners Liz Matthews and Simon Barrett (the couple behind two of Dublin’s top restaurants, Etto and Uno Mas). McNamara will be at the helm in the kitchen, while Fergus Caffrey will continue to steer the kitchen at Uno Mas.
It might be more accurate to characterise the latest refresh as a “new chapter” in Locks evolution, rather than as a newcomer on the scene. This is evidenced in the light touch upgrades that have been made in advance of the grand opening this Saturday, February 22nd. The bright ground floor diningroom seats 40 and has been freshened up with light leather-clad banquettes and smart oak panelling.
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The biggest change patrons will notice is a fine new bar area at the entrance (“three cars worth of investment” Matthews says), where previously this had accommodated a small service bar and a couple of tables. The curved oak and Dekton-topped bar sits snugly in the space and will accommodate up to eight people at the counter. Anyone familiar with Uno Mas will be aware of the joy of a corner seat at the bar with views to the room, the door and the kitchen. Matthews is already eyeing up her seat for that celebratory negroni when the time comes.
It’s six years since Matthews and Barrett opened Uno Mas (nine since Etto opened) and in that time it has become a firm favourite, frequently cited among diners’ top favourite restaurants in the capital. But don’t expect Uno Mas Mark 2 at Lena’s. The vision here is Italian trattoria – casual, family-style dining. “This is a neighbourhood restaurant so we see people popping in for maybe just one plate, or a drink and a bite. Obviously you can sit down and have three or four courses, but the option is there to pick and choose.” It has a full bar licence too, so good news for fans of beer and cocktails. The wine list will be mainly Italian, but France, Spain, Austria and Germany will feature too.
As for the food style, Matthews says while the menu is firmly Italian she expects this will evolve over time, as it has done in their other restaurants. Most recently Matthews, Barrett and McNamara travelled to Rome where they went on a dining “deep dive” and found some favourites – “definitely there will be a strong Roman influence initially”. But with trips planned to Piedmont and Abruzzo she can see the menu taking on new influences.
A key addition has been a shiny new state-of-the-art La Monferrina pasta maker (“about a car’s worth” of investment – Matthews trades in an unconventional currency) which is clearly bringing much joy to the kitchen staff. All of the pasta will be freshly made on site, so expect filled pasta dishes to feature such as Pumpkin and Ricotta mezzaluna with walnut and sage brown butter (€16).
Like the signature dishes at their other restaurants that patrons keep coming back for, Matthews predicts there will be one or two dishes on the Lena menu likely to garner a following. Her money is on the cacio e pepe (€16), and with rum baba and tiramisu on the dessert menu, the dolci could well give Uno Mas’s popular flan de queso a run for its money. There’s a lot of excitement too around chunky T-bone steaks from Peter Hannan made for sharing.
The launch menu is divided Italian-style between Antipasti – including 72-hour sourdough focaccia (€5), sage leaf and anchovy fritti (€8) and cured meats including pancetta, ossocollo and speck (€10); Primi – pasta dishes, spiced beef carpaccio, buffalo mozzarella and fava bean whip (all around €16); and Secondi – mains including veal shin osso buco (€30), barbecued pork chop (€32) and Hannan’s beef cuts designed for sharing between two (€82) and four (€115) with beef dripping potatoes and bordelaise sauce.
In the two upstairs dining spaces (for 25 and 12) – formerly a much-loved venue for private celebrations – there has been little change except to lift the carpets to reveal beautiful parquet flooring. These rooms can still be booked for private dining. McNamara and Matthews are very conscious of the strong attachment many Lock’s patrons have to this canal-side idyll and say they are determined to make it as welcoming as ever for those diners, but the new menu and layout should widen its appeal and make it more attractive as a casual midweek drop in spot too.
With a Michelin Bib Gourmand to its name, it is often speculated that Uno Mas is due a Michelin star, but following the 2025 award ceremony last week, still no sign. It’s not something they are necessarily working towards Matthews says. “Having a star can bring its own pressure too. It creates an expectation among some diners who come to the restaurant expecting a different experience to what Uno Mas is really about.” Let’s hope that unfussy but quality-driven approach can be replicated at Lena.
Lena is open Wednesday and Thursday, dinner only; Friday and Saturday, lunch and dinner; Sunday, lunch only. www.lena.ie
