Muscadet has been around forever, but rarely seems to get much attention. Yet all of the major retailers, including Aldi, Lidl, Dunnes Stores, Supervalu, Tesco and O’Briens have pretty decent versions, so it must sell. I am a big fan of this subtle, light, refreshing French wine, particularly when the summer comes around.
The wine is named after the large region that fans out southwards and eastwards from the city of Nantes in Brittany. The grape variety is Melon de Bourgogne, found exclusively in that part of the world. Muscadet sur lie has spent time on its lees, the dead yeast cells left after fermentation; this gives it a subtle creaminess, extra flavour and sometimes a light prickle.
Basic Muscadet can be a bit neutral and lacking in flavour. It is worth paying a few cent more for a Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine, a smaller region that produces superior wine.
Low in alcohol, with light green fruits, racy acidity, often with a mineral saline touch, this is what previous generations drank instead of Rías Baixas or Marlborough Sauvignon. Great as a sipping wine, it comes into its own with light summery salads and all sorts of shellfish.
Locally the favourites would include mussels, plainly boiled prawns or oysters and Muscadet really goes well with all three. A bottle of chilled Muscadet with a plateau de fruits de mer may be a cliche, but it really does work well.
Critics argue it is a pleasant but neutral wine, not unlike a Pinot Blanc or Picpoul de Pinet, and some certainly fall into this category. However, in recent years two developments have given the region real impetus. First, the region has been sub-divided again to include two separate appellations, Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire which tends to be more mineral, and Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu, which is typically richer and riper in style. In addition to that, 10 of the top crus or villages have been singled out as producing superior wine. This is similar to the system in Beaujolais.
There is now a small coterie of very high-quality producers offering Muscadet with real depth and complexity; wines that can compete with Chablis and other fresh white wines, although sadly not many are available here. My favourite is Luneau-Papin, stocked exclusively by Whelehan’s, followed by Jo Landron from Wines Direct. O’Briens has the ultra-reliable Domaine des Chauvinière (€14.95), made by Jérémie Huchet, one of the leading young lights of Muscadet, Le Caveau has the excellent organic Nicolas Reau (€22.35). Dunnes Stores has the classic SeaFood & Co 2020 Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine sur lie for €11.50.
Specially Selected Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2021
12%, €7.99
Light and fresh with lively crisp Granny Smith apples and a snappy dry finish. A perfect picnic wine. From: Aldi.
Domaine Les Trois Toits 2020 Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine sur lie
12%, €17.95
Pristine, subtle stony green fruits with herbs and citrus. Enjoy with all manner of plain white fish and shellfish. From: The Corkscrew, D2.
Les Houx Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine sur lie 2019, Organic
12.5%, €22.05
A delicious lightly-textured racy Muscadet with precise savoury briny orchard fruits and a mouth-watering tangy finish. Try it with a nice bowl of herby mussels accompanied by fresh baguette. From: WinesDirect.ie, Mullingar.
Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine sur lie Les Pierres Blanches 2020, Domaine Luneau-Papin
12%, €23
Waves of waxy textured green fruits; pears and apples in a delightful wine that outperforms just about any other white wine at this price. From: Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown.
