All too often, I forget that eggs make a really quick and easy dinner. We tend to pigeonhole them into a breakfast or brunch option – something to cook on a lazy weekend morning when we have time to enjoy a nice cooked breakfast.
Dishes such as shakshuka, a Middle Eastern pepper and tomato stew, can make a great dinner option too. The sauce simmers on the hob, and eggs are poached in little indents on the surface. Turkish menemen is very similar to shakshuka, but there’s a lesser-known Turkish eggs recipe that’s incredibly delicious too. This, called cilbir, involves poaching eggs, then laying them on a swirl of garlic-infused yoghurt, topping with a nutty chilli butter and fresh dill fronds. It’s a magical combination, simple, satisfying and very quick to make.
Initially, the thought of poached eggs and yoghurt may sound off-putting. I know those textures don’t sound right. But actually, it’s pure comfort food. Just add some good sourdough toast or a toasted pitta bread to mop up all that amazing flavour.
As with all simple dishes, this relies on great ingredients. Organic or at least free-range eggs and good-quality, thick Greek-style yoghurt are best. Have the eggs and yoghurt at room temperature. Nigella Lawson heats the yoghurt gently over a pan of simmering water to infuse the garlic. I find this makes it a little too runny and warm, so I simply stir it in, like many traditional recipes do. Garlic will always find a way of making itself known, especially in a creamy yoghurt. Mix it into the yoghurt and leave to infuse at room temperature for about 10 minutes.
Traditionally, Turkish chilli flakes, pul biber, would be used for this. Aleppo chilli or paprika will be a good substitute. Dill is such an underused herb in this part of the world, but I do really love it. I’ve been using it regularly lately, as we’ve been cooking more and more Ukrainian food, in solidarity. I’ve recommended them here before, but Olia Hercules’s cookbooks are a real delight. She shares her family’s and friends’ traditional recipes in both Mamushka and Summer Kitchens. Food and recipes have always been a great way to connect with and understand a different culture. I find eating the food from a country is second best to visiting. The tastes and smells can transport you there.
Recipe: Turkish eggs (cilbir)
