Drink

It may not be the largest producer, but Austria turns out world-class wines

John Wilson: The native grüner veltliner grape is great to drink on its own, but also pairs excellently with food

Most of the best wines come from the Kremstal, Kamptal and Wachau regions.

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John Wilson
Sat Jun 22 2024 - 05:00

I recently travelled to VieVinum, the biennial wine fair held in The Hofburg Palace in the centre of Vienna. There were more than 500 wineries offering samples to more than 1200 wine professionals, and a lot of thirsty locals too. I attended a Greek wine masterclass, tasted blaufränkisch from six different countries, tried pomegranate wine from Azerbaijan, and plenty of great wines from many other countries too.

But the main focus of the event was definitely on Austrian wine. Austria is not the world’s largest producer (a mere 1 per cent of world production) but the wines, while rarely cheap, generally attain a very high standard. Strong points include world-class dessert wines, riesling, sauvignon, chardonnay as well as some seriously good red wines. Sparkling wine is steadily improving too.

The most widely planted grape variety is the native grüner veltliner. Styles vary from light and racy to spicy, structured and powerful. Most of the best wines come from the Kremstal, Kamptal and Wachau regions. Rarely aged in new oak, they all offer a freshness and purity of fruit that make them great to drink on their own, but also fantastic food wines.

As well as the wines below, look out for wines from Eichinger (Celtic Whiskey), Brundlmayer (Greenacres), Geyerhof (Mitchells) and Malat (Searsons).

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Grüner Veltliner 2023 vom Löss, M&S Classic No. 30, Niederösterreich

12%, €13

Light and refreshing with green apples and pears. A great summer wine to enjoy alongside mixed salads, Asian prawns or chicken.

Marks & Spencer

[ John Wilson’s top 20 summer wines to quench your thirst ]

Grüner Veltliner 2022, Vitikultur Moser (Biodynamic)

12%, €20

Light and crisp with racy vibrant green apple fruits and a touch of ginger. Try it with a herby salad or fresh cheese.

Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Myles Creek, Kilkee; Higgins, D14; The Vintry, D6; Pinto Wines, D9; boxofwine.ie; wineonline.ie Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Cappagh Stores, Knocknacarra; Fresh Stores.

Allram Grüner Veltliner Strass 2022, Kamptal

12%, €24.95

Rich peaches with herbal notes cut through with fresh orange peel acidity. A very stylish aperitif or great with asparagus.

Blackrock Cellar; McHughs, D5; Nectar Wines, D18; Neighbourhood Wine; Clontarf Wines; Drinkstore, D7; Martins, D3; D-Six, D6.

Ried Renner 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner 2021, Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal

13.5%, €40-45

A magnificent, structured wine replete with mouth-watering lush peach and pineapple fruits; spicy too, with a creamy texture and stony minerals, all bound up in a fine acidity. A more opulent style that would go nicely with a quiche, smoked salmon, sushi or a schnitzel, the local favourite.

64 Wine, Glasthule; Redmonds, D6; Green Man Wines, D6W; Martins, D3.

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