I am not yet quite ready for winter, but autumn has certainly kicked in. Cooler evenings call out for more red wines than white, and slightly richer wines with a bit more body too.
Piemonte, in northwestern Italy, seems to epitomise autumn. As well as wine, the region is famous for hazelnuts, truffles, porcini, Carnaroli and Arborio rice and chocolate. All come together to produce one of the great cuisines of the world, and most are at their peak at this time of year.
The most famous wines are Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from the Nebbiolo grape. Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba come from a wider area and can often offer great value for money.
Piemonte is a mountainous region with varying soils and climate. In addition to Nebbiolo, there are many other grapes grown and a huge variety of wines made in all styles. Gavi is probably the best-known white wine, and Moscato d’Asti is the most famous lightly sparkling white wine. The other red wines worth seeking out include Dolcetto and Barbera, both of which tend to be lighter and fruitier than Nebbiolo.
The best Baroli do not come cheap, but these are some of the world’s great wines. Both 2019 and 2020 are excellent vintages and will last a decade or more. As well as the Vajra below look out for Produttori di Barbaresco, Burloto, Cavallotto, Massolino, Fontanafredda, and Cogno. I include one less expensive autumnal red wine from Tuscany, the other great name in Italian wine.
Specially Selected Toscana Rosso 2022
14%, €10.99
Firm dark cherry fruits with some drying tannins. Try it with a rare steak. From Aldi
Langhe Dolcetto Nirane 2022, Ascheri
14%, €19.95
Dolcetto translates as ‘little sweet one’. Soft and supple with juicy, lightly spicy red fruits and a rounded finish. Perfect with pizza. From O’Briens
Langhe Nebbiolo Giorgio Pelissero
14%, €28.99
Rose petal aromas with sour cherry and plum fruits, finishing with light tannins. Enjoy it with mushroom risotto, steak or firm cheeses. From theallotment.ie
Barolo Bricca della Viole 2019, GD Vajra
14%, €110
Perfumed aromas of violets and tea, leading on to a wonderful, elegant palate full of ripe dark fruits, mushrooms, damp earth and a structured tannic finish. Keep for a decade or drink with feathered game or roast mushrooms. From 64 Wine, Glasthule; Baggot Street Wines; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Terroirs, D4; Thomas Woodberry’s, Galway
