As summer kicks in, I start to salivate for the fresh, light wines of the Loire Valley. The river Loire is the longest in France, more than 1,000km from start to finish. Vines flourish alongside a cornucopia of other fruit and vegetables.
Recently I listened with envy to a friend who was about to head there by car and ferry to take in the fantastic castles, excellent local food and great wines. The Loire Valley is a fantastic source of white wines, with something to suit every taste, from racy aromatic sauvignon blanc and saline Muscadet to richer, complex, age-worthy chenin blanc. All, including the sweet wines, bring a lightness and freshness that seems to shout summer. There are red wines and rosés too, but today I focus on the whites.
The Loire is the original home of sauvignon blanc and produces some of the finest examples, less exuberant than those from Marlborough, but every bit as good. The best-known names are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Both are 100 per cent sauvignon, and these are some great wines, although better-value sauvignon can often be found in the nearby Quincy, Menetou-Salon, and the larger region of Touraine or the all-encompassing Val de Loire.
I have always had a soft spot for Savennières, made from chenin blanc. It goes perfectly with poached salmon and hollandaise. Regulars will know that I am a big fan of Muscadet. Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine is superior to plain Muscadet. The best villages are entitled to use their own name, such as Clisson, Goulaine and Vallet.
Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc 2023
11.5%, €9.49
Subtle aromas with soft pear fruits and a rounded finish. With summer salads or by itself.
From Lidl
Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Les Corbillières Domaine Barbou
12.5%, €17.25
Clean citrus with plenty of satisfying plump green fruits and a nice richness. A great all-purpose summer wine, with or without food. Try it with a goat’s cheese salad or crab cakes.
From Wines Direct, Mullingar, Athlone and winesdirect.ie
Clos Joubert Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine sur lie 2023 Domaine Haut-Févrie
12%, €24.50
Fresh cool clean green fruits, with a touch of spice and a fine mineral edge. The classic combination would be oysters or mussels, but it would also go with most seafood and summer salads.
From Delgany Cottage, Greystones; Lilith, D7; BaRossa, D4
Savennières Champ de la Hutte, Château de Chamboureau 2022, Chenin Blanc, Organic
12.5%, €27
Cool crystalline fruits with a lively acidity and a touch of honey. A wine that grows on you with every sip. Try it with poached or grilled salmon, prawn salad or some asparagus.
From Whelehans, Whelehanswines.ie
